Taste Camp 2012: Articles

Taste Camp 2012: Walking the Vineyards with the Winemakers

The most exciting and educational part of Taste Camp 2012 was walking the vineyards with the winemakers. We spent time with four Virginia winemakers and their grapevines…Doug Fabbioli of Fabbioli Cellars, Jordan Harris of Tarara Winery, Ben Renshaw of 8 Chains North in Tranquility Vineyards, Jim Law of Linden Vineyards…discussing everything from canopies to climate.

While every vineyard had a different look and feel, we heard key themes across all the walks…

  • Virginia winemaking is a collaboration. Everyone is working together to make Virginia a great wine region.
  • Pick the right site for your vineyard and match your soil to your grape variety.
  • North / south rows are ideal.
  • Canopy management has been key in helping Virginia make good wine.
  • Most vineyards are currently battling grapevine yellow disease.
  • Everybody prefers a normal growing season, like 2008 and 2009.
  • 2010 was a very easy year to grow grapes in Virginia and thus make a great wine.
  • 2011 was one of the toughest years ever but Virginia winemakers learned they can make good wine in a difficult year. Unfortunately for most it also meant walking away from fruit on the vine. 2011 was especially good for white wines.
  • 2012 is earliest growth ever they’ve seen. As we stood among the grapes, most said they were about three weeks early vs. regular growth schedule.

You feel the passion from this talented group. They are smart, open and honest, all farmers who love their jobs! The TLC required for the job is amazing…it really makes you pause as you sip that next glass of wine.

It was an extreme pleasure to have the opportunity and I so appreciate the candor they had with our group of writer.

Let’s take a walk with each of them and learn more about grape growing and winemaking in Virginia. First up, Doug Fabbioli.

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Taste Camp 2012: The Wine Stand Outs, Part 2

In The Wine Stand Outs, Part 1, I covered five of the eleven stand out wines from Taste Camp 2012, focusing on wineries I was tasting for the first time. Now let’s take a look at the six wines from wineries I’ve tasted and/or covered before.

Boxwood Winery Boxwood 2007

  • Variety: 42.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42.5% Merlot, 15% Petit Verdot
  • Aroma: Dark red fruit with hints of spice
  • Taste: Nice concentrated spicy cassis
  • Price: No longer available
  • My thoughts: 2007 was a very good year for their signature wines, Boxwood and Topiary. I like this Left Bank Bordeaux-style blend (Topiary is a Right Bank style). Adam McTaggart told us this was a huge turning point vintage for them…it set their style for going forward. I loved the big fruitiness of this wine. Rachel told us there may still be a few bottles out there to find. For more on Boxwood and our time Taste Camp visit, see Loudoun County, DC’s Wine Country.

Blenheim Vineyards Rosé 2011

  • Variety: Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Mourvedre
  • Aroma: Big bouquet of strawberry, honey and a touch of cinnamon
  • Taste: Refreshing red fruits with a watermelon finish
  • Price: $14
  • My thoughts: Regular readers know I love Rosé and I love Kirsty Harmon, the fabulous winemaker at Blenheim. I’m always thrilled when I see Kristy and Greg Hirson, assistant winemaker, pouring their wines at events or in their gorgeous tasting room in the country outside Charlottesville. Every wine they make is approachable, easy to drink and delicious. On by BEST of Virginia wine list!!

Veritas Winery Vintner’s Reserve Meritage Blend 2010

  • Variety: 42% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, 25% Petit Verdot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Aroma: Cherry, chocolate and cedar
  • Taste: Cherry with a hint of pepper finished with vanilla and caramel
  • Price: $35
  • My thoughts: I tasted this 2012 Virginia Governor’s Cup Gold winner back in late February at the Virginia Wine Expo and it was even better this tasting! It’s really opened up nicely…a great Meritage blend with chocolate, red fruit, vanilla and caramel hints. What more could you ask for! This again is one of my Virginia winery favorites… Emily is a fabulous winemaker and she is doing amazing work at her winery in red and white! Located outside of Charlottesville.

Breaux Vineyards Nebbiolo 2007

  • Variety: 100% Nebbiolo
  • Aroma: Red fruits with hints of tobacco
  • Taste: Spicy dried red fruits
  • Price: Coming 2014
  • My thoughts: Another 2007 wine shaping up very nicely and it’s not even bottled yet. We were lucky enough to have a barrel sample during our Friday evening dinner at Breaux. They will bottle it this year and then hold for two years before selling. This was a grape Paul Breaux really wanted to grow after his visit to Piemonte, Italy. As Jen Breaux Blosser told us over dinner, “it’s a hard grape to grow and always changing.” Breaux is another one of my Virginia favorites…with their breadth and variety, they have a wine for everyone and their 475-acres are worth the visit for a sip on their patio. For more on our time Taste Camp visit, see Loudoun County, DC’s Wine Country.

Tarara Winery Petit Manseng 2011

  • Variety: 100% Petit Manseng
  • Aroma: Pineapple & citrus
  • Taste: Refreshing crisp citrus and pineapple notes
  • Price: $20
  • My thoughts: This grape is becoming a specialty of Virginia. Most versions I’ve tasted are sweet but this one was perfect! As we boarded the wagon at the winery for a ride into vineyards with winemaker Jordan Harris, he poured us a glass of this. It hit the spot…crisp and refreshing…as we rode in the sun! Jordan said they don’t usually do this wine but with the conditions of 2011 (cloudy & wet September), they decided to try it. Great results! I brought home a bottle and its chilling in the fridge. You can buy it on their website. Located in Loudoun County.

Linden Vineyards Avenius Chardonnay 2009

Taste Camp 2012: The Wine Stand Outs, Part 1

Clearly one of the main reasons forty wine writers came together for Taste Camp 2012 in Loudoun County, Virginia, DC’s Wine Country, was to swirl, sip, spit, taste Virginia wine. Throughout the 48 hour journey across this wine country, we had the opportunity to taste wines from 28 wineries, either at their winery or at Grand Tastings.

A special thank you to ALL the wineries that came out to pour for us or hosted us at their winery…

In total, I tasted from 26 wineries, about 113 wines. Of those, I’ve narrowed it down to 11 stand outs to share with you. Let’s start with the wineries that I tasted for the first time at Taste Camp…

Ankida Ridge Vineyards Pinot Noir 2010

  • Variety: 100% Pinot Noir
  • Aroma: Cherry and blackberry
  • Taste: Delicious blackberry and raspberry red fruits with nice balanced tannins
  • Price: $35 (only 92 cases made so get it while you can!)
  • My thoughts: People say Pinot Noir can’t be done in Virginia but Congratulations to Ankida Ridge! Their first vintage is showing very nicely. This winery was one of my treats of the weekend. Sitting an hour south of Charlottesville in what they are calling “Virginia’s Little Burgundy,” they are growing only the Burgundy classics, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Ankida, an ancient Sumerian word meaning ‘where heaven and earth join,’ the lovely Vrooman Family was pouring their wines for us and I can’t wait to get down to see them!

Stinson Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2011

  • Variety: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
  • Aroma: Crisp floral and grapefruit
  • Taste: Passionfruit, grapefruit with grassy notes
  • Price: $21.99
  • My thoughts: “One concrete egg and two stainless barrels.” That’s what Rachel Stinson, winemaker, said the recipe for the delicious crisp Virginia Sauvignon Blanc was. Love it! This was another great new winery find of Taste Camp. Located in a historic spot in Crozet outside Charlottesville, the unique farm store tasting room is open for visitors and a tasting with Rachel and her fabulous line up of wines is worth the visit.

Zephaniah Farm Vineyard Chambourcin Reserve 2010

  • Variety: 100% Chambourcin
  • Aroma: Bouquet of berries with hints of violet
  • Taste: Rich red fruit and plum
  • Price:$27
  • My thoughts: The Hatch family farm for 62 year finally planted grapes on the land and had their first vintage in 2007. With only 800 cases per year, according to Bill Hatch, they are focused on getting the quality right first. The Chambourcin was a great example!  This is definitely the first time I’ve tasted this grape, made as a rich red wine and liked it! Nice work to Bill Hatch and his son Tremain.

Vint Hill Rosé 2011

  • Variety: 100% Chambourcin
  • Aroma & Taste: Strawberry bouquet
  • My thoughts: Vint Hill Craft Winery was founded in 2009 by veteran Virginia winemaker Chris Pearmund of Pearmund Cellars. It was great to meet Chris and taste his wines including this nice one made at the ‘custom crush’ facility near Warrenton in the historic barns at Vint Hill Farms Station. I’m a big fan of rosé and this one made of Chambourcin, a great use of the grape, is yummy!

Rappahannock Cellars Viognier 2011

  • Variety: 100% Viognier
  • Aroma: Citrus and floral
  • Taste: Fruity peach and orange with hint of oak
  • Price: $23
  • My thoughts: The Delmare Family came to Virginia from California with wine making experience and have now been producing Virginia wine for 10 years. Located between Front Royal and Flint Hill in Huntly, Virginia, the family was drawn to this spot at the base of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The three wines we tasted were very nice, especially this example of Virginia’s official grape, Viognier.

In my next article, I share stand outs from many of the wineries I’ve covered before.

Cheers to these new Virginia finds!

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Taste Camp 2012: Loudoun County, DC’s Wine Country

Last weekend I had the pleasure of being one of 40 wine writers participating in Taste Camp 2012.

After meeting in Long Island, the Finger Lakes and Niagara the last three years, Loudoun County was chosen for 2012…Washington, DC’s wine country. Lucky for me, and everyone else that lives in / visits the DC metro area, it’s only twenty-five miles away. It also happens to be where I was born and raised. It was quite surreal, and very cool, to drive through and spend time in these areas I’ve known so well, now full of grapevines and wineries.

We visited 8 wineries / vineyards in 48 hours for tastings, lunches, dinners and vineyard walks. Lots of wine and lots of information. In this Taste Camp 2012 series, I’ll share my highlights of the weekend.

  • DC’s Wine Country: Let’s start with a little bit more on Loudoun County and the wineries we visited.
  • The Wine Stand Outs, Part 1 & 2: My favorite wines from the 26 producers who poured for us throughout the weekend.
  • Walking the Vineyards with the Winemakers: This was the most exciting part of the weekend for me…spending time among the grapevines with the person who tends to them and turns them into wine.

Loudoun County…now 33 wineries and tasting rooms strong (by my count). Loudoun County is part of Virginia’s Northern Virginia Region, now rivaling Virginia’s original wine region, Central Virginia, for biggest number of wineries.

Loudoun splits the wineries into five scenic clusters. We zigzagged across the county and were only able to hit three of the clusters in two days. Here are the wineries who graciously hosted us, all worthy of a stop on your wine tour.

Boxwood Winery

Just outside Middleburg in the Mosby Cluster, Boxwood Winery is gorgeous and state-of-the-art. Started in 2001 by John Kent Cooke, he and the family have brought in the best to make their wines, including renowned viticulturist Lucie Morton to design their sixteen-acre vineyard and Bordeaux’s great winemaker Stephane Derenoncourt, to consult on winemaking. Boxwood focuses on red wines in the Bordeaux-style from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec, producing 5,000 cases per year.

Rachel Martin and the team welcomed us into the beautiful Tasting Room for a glass of their crisp juicy Boxwood Estate Rosé 2011 before lunch in the Chai among the stainless steel fermentation tanks.

Served with the local Ayrshire Farm delicious sandwiches and salads were served some of Boxwood’s special 2007 vintage…a great comparison of their two wines, Topiary Right Bank Bordeaux-style and Boxwood’s Left Bank Bordeaux-style. I also had the pleasure of sitting next to Richard Leahy, author of the new book Beyond Jefferson’s Vines, we all received as a gift.

Winemaker Adam McTaggart took us into their underground circular barrel Cave where he talked Boxwood wine with us. Big news that a Middleburg AVA designation is in the works! Then we were out to the crush pad for the Grand Tasting (more on that in The Wine Stand Outs).

Great news for all…Boxwood Winery, once only open by appointment, will be open to the public for tastings and tours Friday through Sunday from 11am to 6pm beginning Friday 8 June.

Breaux Vineyards

As we pulled up the drive-away of Breaux Vineyards’ 404-acre estate outside of Hillsboro in the Loudoun Height Cluster, I was reminded of why I love Virginia. The green rolling hills are stunning…these covered with 105 acres of eighteen different grape varieties. Paul Breaux purchased this land in 1994 with only three acres of grapes, and in April 1997 produced his first vintage and opened to the public. By the following year, they were already producing 3,500+ cases of wine. Now up to 10,000 cases per year, Breaux is run by Paul’s daughter Jennifer Breaux Blosser and her husband Christopher Blosser with fourteen wines in their portfolio.

The awards and recognition are many…”Loudoun County’s most impressive wine undertaking” says the Washington Post, Breaux’s Viognier was named to Oz Clarke’s 250 Best Wines of 2012, AND for the fourth consecutive year, Breaux was voted “Virginia’s Favorite Winery” in a public poll done by Virginia Wine Events. When you visit and taste their wines, you’ll know all of these to be true. And the great thing is, NONE of this goes to their head.

Jen and the team welcomed us onto the Patio Madeline for a wine tasting with the Blue Ridge Mountains in the distance. You could sit here for hours taking in the views and sipping the delicious wines. After tastes of the 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, 2010 Viognier, 2010 Jen’s Jambalaya (cajun Louisiana nods abound :) ) and 2002 Merlot Reserve, we went into the Tank Room for a lovely four-course dinner prepared by Tuscarora Mill Restaurant in Leesburg.

More great wines accompanied each course including their recently introduced Syrah Rosé. The 2007 Cabernet Franc Reserve and Cabernet Sauvignon are great finds and examples of Paul Breax’s desire to age Virginia wines and help figure out what was possible in the state. A taste through 2001, 2002, 2005 Nebbiolos with a barrel sample of 2007 was a unique opportunity, and the 2007 is shaping up nicely. After a trip to Piemonte, Italy, Paul decided to grow this tough to cultivate grape here.

Breaux has big plans for the future. We met the new winemaker David Pagan Castaño who will help them get there. Great to see a Spanish winemaker in Virginia and he fits right in with the southern hospitality!

The warm and inviting tasting room is open daily and definitely worth your visit!

Fabbioli Cellars

Our first stop on Saturday just north of Leesburg in the Potomac Cluster was Fabbioli Cellars. Doug Fabbioli and the team are a down-to-earth team ready to pour you their wines. I’ll share more in the Walking the Vineyards with the Winemakers article.

Tarara Winery

We spent Saturday early afternoon further north in the Potomac Cluster along the Potomac River at Tarara Winery. This sprawling 475 acres of winery, vineyards, farm and event space was started in 1983 by Whitie and Margaret Hubert. Winemaker Jordan Harris hosted us for a vineyard walk, yummy lunch by Pizzeria Moto and Grand Tasting of more Virginia wines in their wine cave (more in The Wine Stand Outs and Walking the Vineyards with the Winemakers).

Tranquility Vineyards & Otium Cellars

Last afternoon stop was outside Purcellville in the Loudoun Heights Cluster for a vineyard walk with Ben Renshaw, winemaker at 8 Chains North and manager at Tranquility Vineyards (more in Walking the Vineyards with the Winemakers).
Then we stopped in across the road to the newly opened Otium Cellars Tasting Room for a 8 Chains North and Otium Cellars tasting. Gerhard Bauer of Otium is staying true to his German roots growing several German varieties: Lemberger, Dornfelder and Grau Burgunder (a German clone of Pinot Gris). Tasting Room is open 11am to 6pm daily.

North Gate Vineyard

We spent Saturday evening back in the Loudoun Heights Cluster at North Gate Vineyard’s 26-acre vineyard and public tasting room built to LEED Gold specifications. You’ll notice the solar-paneled roof as you approach the winery. Mark and Vicki Fedor have been growing grapes since 2002 and were winemakers for Corcoran Vineyards in Waterford. They graciously hosted us for our BYO dinner with Smokin’ Willy BBQ after a tasting through their wines. Tasting Room is a great spot to hang out with a nice patio, open Friday through Monday from 11am to 6pm.

Linden Vineyards

We spent Sunday morning with one of the Virginia wine’s masters, Jim Law, at his vineyard. More on that incredible morning in the Walking the Vineyards with the Winemakers article.

And with that, we barely scratched the surface. Loudoun County has plenty to offer for a wine country weekend.

Cheers to DC’s Wine Country!

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Taste Camp Convenes in DC’s Wine Country This Weekend

Taste Camp comes to Northern Virginia wine country this weekend. What is Taste Camp? A gathering of 40 wine journalists and bloggers from all over the U.S. and Canada in an emerging wine region for an immersive wine weekend.

The concept for TasteCamp, created in 2009 by Lenn Thompson, executive editor of the New York Cork Report, is a simple one: getting these enthusiastic writers to taste as much wine as possible and speak to as many winemakers as possible over the course of a weekend in a region that is new to them. This is not a junket — attendees pay their own travel expenses, including their hotel rooms and meals (some are sponsored).

I’m excited to be one of the writers attending this weekend! The 2012 program features a combination of vineyard visits, grand tastings, conversations with winemakers and camaraderie. Participants will also take part in what has become a TasteCamp tradition, a BYO dinner where wine lovers share special bottles in a freestyle evening of discovery and one-upmanship.

We’re visiting six wineries Boxwood Winery, Breaux Vineyards, Fabbioli Cellars, Tranquility Vineyard,  North Gate Vineyards, Linden Vineyards. At several wineries there will also be tastings by other Virginia wineries.

  • At Boxwood: Ankida Ridge, Annefield, Barboursville, Boxwood, Blenheim, Gadino, Glass House, Hume, Notaviva, Paradise Spring, Pearmund, Rappahannock and White Hall
  • At Tarara Vineyards: Bluemont, Corcoran, Delaplane, General’s Ridge, Horton, Loudoun Valley, Narmada, Philip Carter, Stinson and Zephaniah
  • At Tranquility Vineyard: 8 Chains North and Otium Cellars

The last three years of TasteCamp visited Long Island, the Finger Lakes and Niagara (U.S. and Canada). The events generated significant attention for these emerging wine regions via dozens of stories and articles.

Why Virginia for the fourth year? “The 2011 Wine Bloggers Conference was a great opportunity for both Virginia and bloggers, but I wanted to bring TasteCamp to Northern Virginia to offer a truly immersive experience. We want attendees to eat, drink, sleep and breathe Virginia wine for three days. It’s of course impossible to fully explore a region in just a weekend, but that doesn’t stop us from trying,” said Lenn.

I’ll be tweeting this weekend from the event so you can follow on @GrapeOccasions & #TasteCamp AND plenty of content will be gathered for upcoming articles so check back here.

Cheers to Taste Camp 2012!

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