French Wine: Articles

Jan

15

The King of Red: Cabernet Sauvignon

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Cabernet Sauvignon, one of the BIG six grape varieties, is often referred to as the King of Red. At a January event of the Fine Wine Divas, as we tasted through eight fabulous Cabernet Sauvignon wines from around the world, I was reminded of what makes this grape fabulous!

Cabernet, as it can simply be referred to, is originally from Bordeaux, where the cross of it’s parents, Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, arose in the 17th century. It’s genetic parents were only recently discovered. And while many now associate California and Napa with Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux still grows more of the grape than any other region in the world.

What makes Cabernet the King?

  • Cabernet can and does grow almost anywhere. Every country that makes wines, produces a Cabernet Sauvignon.
  • It’s easy to grow and can do so in a range of climates, although it prefers heat and dryer soils.
  • It’s a VERY hardy grape. With thick skins, it’s hard to distort the characteristics. It maintains its flavor and structure very well.
  • Its thick skins also make it resistant to disease.
  • It’s the second most planted grape in the world (Merlot is first).
  • It’s an ideal wine for aging and loves oak aging. With five to ten years being optimal, it’s tannins are soften and new flavor and aroma complexities develop.
  • It’s also great for blending due to it’s big tannins.

Cabernet Sauvignons makes a big wine that becomes silky and elegant with age. They are usually medium to full-bodied with firm tannins and bright acidity. It’s characterized by fruit notes of blackcurrant, cassis, blackberry and non-fruit notes of green bell pepper, cedar and tobacco.

Friday night we tasted around the world, New World (South Africa, Chile, US) and Old World (France).

  • South Africa: 2006 Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Chile: 2010 Concha Y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon, Puente Alto 
  • US/Washington: 2006 L’Ecole No. 41 Cabernet, Walla Walla
  • US/Washington: 2008 Buty “BEAST” Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
  • France/Bordeaux: 2005 Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux
  • France/Bordeaux: 2005 Château Léoville Poyferré St. Julien
  • US/California: 2008 Ehlers Estate “1886″ Cabernet Sauvignon
  • US/California: 2002 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

And while all the wines are truly fabulous, a few stood out as my favorites.

2006 L’Ecole No. 41 Cabernet, Walla Walla

  • Variety: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, Washington
  • Aroma: Spiced plum, earthy, leather
  • Taste: Medium-bodied, smoky plum and dried cranberry notes with hints of cocoa.
  • Price: $30
  • My thoughts: Overall Washington state Cabernets are meant to be approachable at a young age. And it’s said they seem to capture the best of France and California in a single wine. This is a fabulous example!

2008 Ehlers Estate “1886″ Cabernet Sauvignon

  • Variety: 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot, from St. Helena, Napa, California
  • Aroma: Floral, red berries, spice
  • Taste: Silky wine with notes of black cherries, cinnamon and toffee
  • Price: $90
  • My thoughts: Yum is this a good wine…like chocolate covered cherries! And such a gorgeous bottle! St. Helena is a very historic wine growing region with cultivation dating back to mid-1800s. This vineyard is farmed with strict adherence to organic and biodynamic farming standards. 100% of the proceeds from sales of the wines is returned to the Leducq Foundation, supporting international cardiovascular research. Tastes good and does good!

2002 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

  • Variety:  83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot, from California
  • Aroma: Plum, rose, sandalwood
  • Taste: Black plum, berries, tobacco and dark chocolate
  • Price: $99
  • My thoughts: This velvety wine was Rated 91 by Wine Spectator. Silver Oak has been making stunning wines since the early 1970s and this one is divine!

For the group of fifteen Fine Wine Divas, in addition to the Ehlers and Silver Oak, the favorites were 2005 Château Léoville Poyferré St. Julien and 2008 Buty “BEAST” Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. We had a mix of Old World and New World lovers.

Have a favorite Cabernet? Share it with us here. And if you’re interested in our Fine Wine Divas group in DC, let us know.

Cheers to the King of Reds!

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Dec

07

Around the World of Sparkling Wine

Wine  Written by / 2 comments

I’m always a big fan of sparkling wine, special occasion or none. And the holidays are the perfect time to bring out ANY bubbles.

Last week, I attended an “I Brake for Bubbly” tasting at The Curious Grape, a local wine bar and shop, for a great tour through the sparkling wine world….Austria -> Chile -> France -> Spain -> California -> Italy.

Through this tour you’ll see what makes Champagne, which can only come from Champagne, France, so special, and what the climate, grape varieties and process create for sparkling wines from other regions and countries.

First a little overview about how sparkling wine is made.

  • The Traditional Method: The classic way is the méthode traditionelle (traditional method), or méthode Champenoise (Champagne method), developed in Champagne, France. Wine is produced in the normal way, then bottled with a sugar and yeast mixture to sit for a second fermentation. Carbon dioxide is produced during this fermentation creating the tiny bubbles. The yeast cells die and sink to the bottom of the bottle, referred to as the lees. While the wine is aged on the lees, complexity in the flavor develops (Champagne requires a minimum of 15 months for this second fermentation). Next the sediment is removed through ‘riddling,’ the tilting of the bottle on riddling racks to allow the sediment to move to the neck. The neck is then frozen, the cap removed, the plug of frozen sediment shoots out from the pressure. The bottle is then topped up with dosage (small amount of sugar solution, amount added varies based on sweetness and dryness levels desired), recorked and wire caged. Whoosh! Quite a process. Now you know why Champagne is expensive!
  • The Charmat Method: This method, also known as the Italian method, is quicker and used to make many less expensive sparkling wines. In this process, the yeast and sugar are added to the wine in the pressurized stainless steel fermentation tanks.Then this wine is bottled.

Now onto the tour…

Flight 1: Austria for Riesling Sekt

Sekt is the name used for sparkling wine in Germany and Austria. Both wines we tasted are from Weingut Steininger, a small family-owned winery in the Langenlois Valley of Kamptal, one of Austria’s northernmost growing regions. This is a very interesting tasting to compare…

  • 2009 Steininger Riesling Sekt, $25.99: The grapes for this wine come from the lower part of the slopes and a nutrient rich soil. It’s 100% Riesling grapes made using the Traditional Method and aged on the lees for at least one year. The result is a bready nose and apple flavors. Very nice!
  • 2008 Steininger Riesling “Heiligenstein” Sekt, $51.99: Heiligenstein means Holy Stone and is among one of the world’s most famous vineyards for Riesling. It’s very high altitude vineyards, grown on steep terraces of solid rock. First fermentation for this wine in neutral oak casks is one year, then aged on the lees for two years. No dosage is added. It produces a more concentrated sparkling wine with minerality and stone-fruit with bigger bubbles. A real treat!

Flight 2: Chile & France for Chardonnay-based Sparklers

  • 2011 Cono Sur Brut, Bío Bío, Chile, $18.99: This is a quite nice entry level sparkler made of 90% Chardonnay, 6% Pinot Noir and 4% Riesling. You wouldn’t expect a sparkling wine from Chile, but this one comes from the very southern part of the country, with sunny yet cold weather perfect for growing sparkling wine grapes. While made using the Charmant Method, they age the base wine for four months in barrel before second fermentation, then allow the wine to rest on the lees in tank for three months before bottling. Very balanced with nice minerality!
  • Non-Vintage Pierre Moncuit Blanc de Blancs Champagne “Hugues de Coulmet” Brut, Champagne, France, $51.99: Pierre Moncuit is a small boutique producer dating back to the 1940s. Their 36 acres of Grand Cru Village are in the the southern part of the region, which produces some of the region’s best grapes as they are grown in very chalky soil, giving great minerality to the wine. Although this is non-vintage, all Pierre Moncuit’s are made with single vintage grapes. Aged three years for second fermentation in the bottle before disgorgement. Very special boutique Champagne!

Flight 3: Spain & California for Red Grape-based Sparklers

  • Non-Vintage Canals Canals Cava Brut Nature Rosat Reserve, Penedes, Spain, $15.99: Cava is sparkling wine in Spain. Cava mainly comes from Penedes region. Cava is made with Spanish grapes using the Traditional Method. This wine is made from Garnacha, Monastrell, Trepat and Pinot Noir. Reserva in Spain means it’s been aged at least 15 months. Brut Nature means no sugar is added to the dosage. Ths wine has been aged 24 months in second fermentation. Very nice!
  • 2008 Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs, Carneros, California, $21.99: Carneros is the cold end of the Sonoma and Napa Valley. Founded by Spain’s Freixenet, the second oldest Cava house dating back to 1889 in Spain, they started Gloria Ferrer and planted the first grapes in 1980. Made with the Traditional Method from 92% Pinot Noir and 8% Chardonnay and aged 18 months on the lees, there is also 5% non sparkling rosé added to give it the pretty pink color and creamy round texture. Lovely subtle strawberry and vanilla notes.
  • Non-Vintage Roederer Estate Brut Rosé, Anderson Valley, California, $28.99: Roederer Estate Brut is the first California sparkling wine to be produced by Champagne Louis Roederer, the fine winemaker of France. The Anderson Valley is the coolest of California’s sparkling wine regions, also very wet so hard to ripen the grapes. This blend is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay with 5% non-sparkling Pinot Noir added for color. Roederer follows the common Champagne practice of holding a portion of each year’s harvest in “reserve” to enrich the non-vintage blend in any given year. This wine is made of 10-20% reserve wines aged in oak for roundness and aged 24 months on the lees. A Champagne like sparkler from California!

Flight 4: France & Italy for What’s Hot Now

  • 2010 Domaine des Nugues “Made by G,” Beaujolais, France, $19.99: This wine from the Beaujolais region is 100% Gamay grapes, however sparkling wines aren’t allowed to be labled Beaujolais, thus the name Made by G. These grapes are hand-harvested and fermented, then fermented again using Traditional Method for a few months on lees. No sugar is added, the sweetness coming just from the Gamay grapes.
  • 2011 Tenuata Il Falchetto Moscato d’Asti “Ciombo,” Piedmont, Italy, $17.99: As an Italian wine it is considered Frizzante, their main term for sparkling wines. This wine is made of 100% Moscato grapes and tank fermented. The grapes are grown in the Ciombo region on 25 year old vines. The results is a very intense, floral, honey wine with low alcohol. It’s a perfect after dinner offering.

And that was our flight around the world of sparkling. What’s your favorite sparkling wine?

Cheers to Bubbles!

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Nov

15

Le Beaujolais Nouveau Est Arrivé! The New Beaujolais Has Arrived!

Wine  Written by / 3 comments

Today, the third Thursday of November, marks the 60 year French tradition of unveiling the first wine of the harvest season, Beaujolais Nouveau.

Beaujolais is located in the region of Burgundy, France, where winemaking traces back to the Roman times. There are 2,500 Beaujolais growers in the region.

  • By law, Beaujolais grapes must be harvested by hand and grown on individual, free standing vines.
  • Beaujolais Nouveau is made from 100% Gamay grapes, which have thinner skins than most grapes, causing lower levels of tannin. The wine is meant to be served slightly chilled, at about 55°F, which brings out the wine’s refreshing and fruit-forward character better than if it were served at room temperature.


    Video on Jean-Claude Debeaune Beaujolais Nouveau 2012

  • Beaujolais Nouveau owes its easy drinkability to a winemaking process called carbonic maceration, or whole-berry fermentation. This technique preserves the fresh, fruity quality of the wine without extracting bitter tannins from the grape skins.
  • Originally, Beaujolais Nouveau was the wine of the vineyard workers, consumed to celebrate the end of harvest and giving them a first taste of the new vintage.
  • In 1985, France passed a law requiring that Beaujolais Nouveau must always be released on the third Thursday in November anywhere in the world.
  • More than 35 million bottles of Beaujolais Nouveau are expected to be consumed in the months following the wine’s release.

To celebrate the day, Beaujolais Nouveau countdown parties became popular throughout France and abroad. Now, Beaujolais Nouveau Day is a global celebration. While there are many great brands of Beaujolais Nouveau to chose from at your local wine shop, Georges Duboeuf has created the biggest splash in the U.S.

This year, Georges Duboeuf celebrates their 30th anniversary of Beaujolais Nouveau in the U.S. with “Thirty Years of Magic“…

  • Marco Tempest, world-renowned techno-illusionist, is using his new brand of magic to tell the story behind the brand, the wine and the overall celebration of Beaujolais Nouveau. And he’s created a label for this year’s wine that comes to life, through a customized augmented-reality application that is used with your smartphone. Get all the details here.
  • Events are happening across the country, like today’s Tapping of the Keg in Baltimore. See the list here.
  • The 2012 vintage is vibrant, fruit-forward and best served chilled. Despite the short harvest the “quality is excellent!” Georges Duboeuf has proclaimed. “The color is a lovely ruby red with purplish tints. The aromas are very pleasant, dominated by red berries, and on the palate, they are flavorful, subtle, fresh and fruity with good structure and balance,” Duboeuf confirmed.

Beaujolais Nouveau is a perfect pairing with a wide range of foods making it ideal to serve next week for Thanksgiving.

I’m off to pick up my bottles of Le Beaujolais Nouveau! Santé!

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Aug

10

Loire Valley Sancerre Rosé Finally Found

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My first discovery of Pascal Jolivet wine was in Paris for my Mom’s 60th birthday. We had their lovely Sancerre Blanc at Brasserie Bofinger (5-7 rue de la Bastille), Paris’ oldest brasserie since 1864. And since, I order it whenever I can.

Last summer, I saw online they make a Sancerre Rosé. As a Rosé lover, I had to try it. For some reason it eluded me until a few weeks ago finally turning up at Cork & Fork in Washington, DC.

Provence is the most commonly thought of Rosé producer in France, but being Sancerre and Pascal Jolivet, this comes from the Loire Valley.

Pascal Jolivet Sancerre Rosé 2011

  • Variety: 100% Pinot Noir
  • Aroma:Bright red fruit with floral notes
  • Taste: Soft cherry and dry notes
  • Price: $25
  • My thoughts: I must say after all the searching for this wine it didn’t quite live up to my expectations especially for the price. It was overall soft and dry without much oomph. Having said that my friends and I enjoyed the bottle as an aperitif on a hot day.

I would highly recommend Pascal Jolivet Sancerre Blanc. It’s a gem and worth the price (usually $12-$15)! With vineyards in Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume, they are one of the youngest wineries in the Loire Valley. They make many different wine labels under the Pascal Jolivet brand. Next I need to try their Pouilly-Fume.

Santé!

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Aug

04

Screwtop Wine Bar: Every Rosé Has Its Thorn

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It’s hot which is perfect Rosé weather as it’s light, crisp and refreshing wine, and a pretty pink shade. Over the last few weeks I’ve tried several new Rosés at local wine bars.

Last night I finally visited Screwtop Wine Bar in Clarendon, a neighborhood in Arlington, Virginia. Their motto…drink what you like. So I had Rosé from the Every Rosé Has Its Thorn line up…one from Germany, France and Austria.

  • Villa Wolf Pinot Noir Rosé 2011, Pfalz, Germany
  • Mittelbach Zweitgeit 2011, Burgenland-Austria: Round strawberry taste
  • Chinon Rosé Cabernet Franc 2011, Loire Valley, France: Heaviest in body of the three with a tart cranberry taste

My favorite of the bunch…

Villa Wolf Pinot Noir Rosé 2011

  • Variety: Pinot Noir from Pfalz, Germany
  • Aroma: Crisp berty
  • Taste: Bright zippy cranberry and raspberry
  • Price: $12.99
  • My thoughts: This was my favorite Rosé because of its fruit forward taste with a truly zippy finish. The wine is a J.L. Wolf, part of the Dr. Loosen wine family. Ernst Loose’ s goal at J.L. Wolf is to make powerful, traditionally crafted Pfalz wines (drier and more full bodied Rieslings as well as Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer and Silvaner. ) to complement his lighter Dr. Loosen wines from the Mosel (Rieslings that are higher alcohol and ripe flavors of fruit and stone).

Screwtop is featuring German wines throughout August including this one. I really enjoyed our time at Screwtop. More to come on it in an upcoming series, What Makes a Great Wine Bar?

Prost to Rosé!

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